Heels!

We’ve come a long way from the long-since-discontinued Chinese practice of foot-binding for women. “Foot binding was the custom of applying tight binding to the feet of young girls to modify the shape of their feet. It was practiced in China from the Song dynasty [960 – 1270 AD] until the early 20th century, and bound feet were considered a status symbol as well as a mark of beauty [and wealth; servants would do the work]. Foot binding limited the mobility of women, and resulted in lifelong disabilities for most of its subjects, although some women with bound feet working outdoors have also been reported. Feet altered by binding were called lotus feet.” Wikipedia. Walking, to put it mildly, was at best exceptionally difficult. Even for those who survived into the 20th century, corrective surgery was virtually impossible.

 

Forcing distortions to women’s feet have been pervasively cultural for a long time, but they are often so societally acceptable that people ignore the pain. For example, high heels not only make a shorter woman taller, a tall woman seem “statuesque,” emphasizing a slim ankle and teasing a more slender leg, but they have driven the fashion industry ($$$$$$) for a very long time. Surprisingly, such high heels did not start out as accoutrements for women. They came about as a fashion statement about men who were so successful that they could flash they did not have to cater to practical physical labor requirements. Higher heels, higher stature.

 

“High heels, in terms of 21st century standards, did not come about until around the 1600s in Europe. Men wore them to imply their upper-class status; only someone who did not have to work could afford, both financially and practically, to wear such extravagant shoes.” Wikipedia. As time progressed men continued with thick clunky heels to reflect status, women adopted the slim, ankle-enhancing version. Heels fell from fashion’s grace in the West for a period during the middle of the 19th century, but they surging came back under the pressure of WWI.

 

“With the 1900s bringing two devastating world wars, many countries set regulations for rationing almost all aspects of life. This included materials previously used for making heels, such as silk, rubber, or leather; these began to be replaced with cork and wooden soles. Another one of the numerous outcomes of these wars was an increase in international relations, and a more proliferate sharing of fashion through photography and films, which helped spread high heel fashion as well. Examples of this were the brown and white pumps with cutouts or ankle straps combined with a peep toe. Their practicality yet professional look appealed to the new, fast-paced lifestyle of many women.

 

“Alternatively, World War II led to the popularization of pin-up girl posters, which men would often hang in their bunks while at war. Almost all of these girls were pictured wearing high heels, leading to an increase in the relationship between high heels and female sexuality. The tall, skinny stiletto heel was invented in 1950, strengthening the relationship between women, sexuality, and appearance.” Wikipedia. Today, with a few rare exceptions, high heels remain mostly a female affectation, but as the press for equality moves forward, there are some very real questions, and some surprising recent trends, that suggest a change is… er… afoot.

 

Let’s face it, in addition to increasingly the likelihood of bad fall (picture a high heel stuck in a sidewalk grate), high heels can cause pain and discomfort, make walking and running that much more difficult and cause serious anatomical damage: “‘From an osteopathic perspective, we’re looking for the body to be centered from head to toe. High heels put the foot at an angle and pull muscles and joints out of alignment, so the effects aren’t limited to the feet,’ Dr. Surve explained. “It’s not unusual for people who spend lots of time in high heels to have low back, neck and shoulder pain because the shoes disrupt the natural form of the body.”

 

“Structurally, the plantar fascia in the foot is connected to the calf muscle, which in turn connects to the hamstring. The hamstrings attach to the pelvis and low back, which is why wearing high heels can make your back ache along with your feet. Also, walking on the balls of your feet will shift your center of gravity forward, forcing you to arch your back when you stand and further contributing to back pain.” Osteopatic.org. Well, perhaps “equality” will spell the end of this torture that is culturally inflicted on women.

 

The March 8th Los Angeles Times reports that we are seeing new culturally-driven fashion trends that seem to bringing even the most fashionable women back down to earth. And face it, high, spikey heels have never been comfortable! “Around the country, women are trading in their high-heeled stilettos for sneakers and ballet flats. Workplaces are becoming more casual, and it is increasingly acceptable to wear sneakers to dinner. But analysts say there are other changes afoot too: More Americans are working from home, and even among those who do go into the office, fitness trackers such as Fitbit have made people more aware of how much they are — or should be — moving.

 

“‘Even after we get to work, we’re trying not to sit at our desks all day,’ said Katie Smith, director of retail analysis at Edited. ‘We stand. We take the stairs. We walk to lunch. We’re constantly counting our steps, so it makes sense to wear comfortable footwear and clothing.’

 

“Sales of high heels dropped 12% last year, while sales of women’s sneakers rose 37% to $2.3 billion, according to NPD Group’s retail tracking service… The sales decline wasn’t for lack of options: High heel inventory rose 28% from the year before, according to Edited, a New York-based market research firm. And the sagging sales didn’t have much to do with price: About one-third of high heels had been discounted by an average of 47%.

 

“‘This is not a burn-your-heels moment — the majority of women still have heels in their wardrobes,’ Smith said. ‘But there isn’t an expectation anymore that if I go to a party, I have to put on my spiky heels, stand for two hours and then want to die. Social mores are changing.’

 

“It doesn’t hurt that flats — which are popping up on runways and the red carpet — are having a pop culture moment, either. Marc Jacobs’ latest fashion show featured models in silk lace-up brogues and crystal-embellished ballet flats, while actress Gal Gadot wore gladiator sandals to the ‘Wonder Woman’ premiere. Even First Lady Melania Trump, known for her love of high-end high heels by Christian Louboutin and Manolo Blahnik, traded in her stilettos for a pair of white sneakers last year for a trip to Texas after Hurricane Harvey.”

 

Maybe I am just getting older, but watching the women in my world wear spikey heels generates my concern for the pain they must be feeling much more than the normal, “wow, that’s so sexy” response you might expect. Maybe I’m not alone in that?

 

I’m Peter Dekom, and beauty-through-serious-discomfort just seems a bit out of place in the modern world.